iOS Plex and Plexamp players won't play most AAC files I've created using Switch audio convertor

You can see this pretty clearly here:

$ ❯ mp4dump '/Users/elan/Downloads/Brendon Moeller - Materialize/bogus aac/01 Future Nostalgia.m4a'
[ftyp] size=8+20
  major_brand = M4A
  minor_version = 0
  compatible_brand = M4A
  compatible_brand = mp42
  compatible_brand = isom
[moov] size=8+38306
  [mvhd] size=12+96
    timescale = 44100
    duration = 8156160
    duration(ms) = 184947
  [trak] size=8+33749
    [tkhd] size=12+80, flags=1
      enabled = 1
      id = 1
      duration = 8156160
      width = 0.000000
      height = 0.000000
    [mdia] size=8+33649
      [mdhd] size=12+20
        timescale = 44100
        duration = 8156160
        duration(ms) = 184946
        language = ```
      [hdlr] size=12+22
        handler_type = soun
        handler_name =
      [minf] size=8+33575
        [smhd] size=12+4
          balance = 0
        [dinf] size=8+28
          [dref] size=12+16
            [url ] size=12+0, flags=1
              location = [local to file]
        [stbl] size=8+33515
          [stsd] size=12+91
            entry_count = 1
            [mp4a] size=8+79
              data_reference_index = 1
              channel_count = 2
              sample_size = 16
              sample_rate = 44100
              [esds] size=12+39
                [ESDescriptor] size=5+34
                  es_id = 0
                  stream_priority = 0
                  [DecoderConfig] size=5+20
                    stream_type = 5
                    object_type = 64
                    up_stream = 0
                    buffer_size = 6144
                    max_bitrate = 377040
                    avg_bitrate = 0
                    DecoderSpecificInfo = 12 10
                  [Descriptor:06] size=5+1
          [stts] size=12+12
            entry_count = 1
          [stsc] size=12+28
            entry_count = 2
          [stsz] size=12+31868
            sample_size = 0
            sample_count = 7965
          [stco] size=12+1456
            entry_count = 363
  [udta] size=8+4433
    [meta] size=12+4421
      [hdlr] size=12+22
        handler_type = mdir
        handler_name =
      [ilst] size=8+283
        [trkn] size=8+24
          [data] size=8+16
            type = 0
            lang = 0
        [.nam] size=8+32
          [data] size=8+24
            type = 1
            lang = 0
            value = Future Nostalgia
        [.alb] size=8+33
          [data] size=8+25
            type = 1
            lang = 0
            value = Future Nostalgiax
        [.ART] size=8+24
          [data] size=8+16
            type = 1
            lang = 0
            value = Dua Lipa
        [.gen] size=8+19
          [data] size=8+11
            type = 1
            lang = 0
            value = Pop
        [.day] size=8+20
          [data] size=8+12
            type = 1
            lang = 0
            value = 2020
        [.enc] size=8+43
        [aART] size=8+24
          [data] size=8+16
            type = 1
            lang = 0
            value = Dua Lipa
      [free] size=8+4088
[free] size=8+2040
[....] size=8+7896552